Friday, 22 September 2017

First time making a hood for a jacket (Marluxia's Organisation 13 Jacket)

Making a hood


I was excited and also nervous about making this.
I've never made a hood before for a jacket, and I couldn't find my pattern reference book I got in my NC year for a guide. 


Below is the original pattern piece,  after making the paper copy
I used this reference from Pinterest as a rough guide after making an attempt myself, though it ended up looking more like a space helmet/traditional dutch hat.


After looking at this I noticed that it didn't need to curve in at the top, and came up with this and made a mock up,
after the mock up I noticed It was better for the design to have a godet in the middle to round of the hood.  (5cm godet)
Here is a very rough idea of the hood design
(I tried to work the drawing tablet and gave up for the mouse so do excuse the drawing)






notches: I notched to match where the half way point is on the hood 
(17.78 cm to separate the hood and the heads extended shape)

in hindsight: I would have notches the godet part of the hood a few times to balance out the hood.
Also in hindsight: more images for blogging.



Monday, 15 May 2017

2nd last day of class.

Design and make project work
I felt today was super productive, 
(1) started and finished my dress with some tweaks to the patterns and finished my jacket 

Tweaks on dress:
  1. I was originally going to have the zip on the side, even without sleeves this would be really impractical to get into, but with sleeves it's pretty much near to impossible.
  2. So because of this I move the zip to the back of the garment, and because of this I had to make a new neck facing hold my old one in half draw another pattern and add a 1 cm seam to the cut edge to allow room for the zip.  The back patterns both skirt and top half had to have a 1 cm attached also.
  3. I also learned while making my mock up that the front neck facing and front neck, will need fused in order to make sure it sits right and also to make sure it doesn't stretch this could also be attached with plastic boning as well as with fusing.  Both would also work.           
  4. The sleeves didn't turn out how I imagined they would either, so for the actual garment i'm going to make them shorter and flare more.

 
picture above of me sewing the one piece sleeve.


Lined denim jacket:
I'm really happy with the outcome of the jacket, I love the flare in it, I think when I make it again, I am going to make fusing higher up on the bottom part cause I love the structure of it, but i'd love to make it even more dramatic!
I think i'd also add 2 or more buttons under the one I have currently on it.
I want to get out of the habit of using only one button on my jackets.





Friday, 12 May 2017

The last leg of my first year of college.

I've just finished my Graded unit last week
notes are all done now (more or less)
I found it was good as long as I kept taking notes, and photograhs of the progress
here is some below:
this is the unlined jacket I done before it was all put together I overlocked the garment but I think i'm going to make another jacket but binding the edges instead for a better finish


I really like how it looks inside out (I decided to go with copying part of the front pattern for my faces, and I was a bit unsure how it was going to sit at first but i really like it would work I think if bindinded both ways, I think I could make a really funky jacket with this.

Last but not least, the final garment, I used an blind stitcher to finish the sleeves and hem and I found this alot neater than blind stitching by hand  
(below is the blind stitching and the finished jacket)







Monday, 3 April 2017

A catch up post

Update

I've been working on my log book, and mock up for my graded unit jacket.
Decided what I'm doing for it.
(1) Vertical Panel Pockets, (2) Mandarin Collar, (3) 2 Piece Sleeve (4) Contrast Stitching with white overlock and stitching.
To make it prettier on the inside as it will be unlined.

Pictured above (left is the jacket design and right is the pocket)

Also working on my Design and make dress now that the jacket is finished now.
This is being done with a size 10, as the assessment will be done in this size.

working on transferring my pattern to the calico to make the mock up



Wednesday, 8 March 2017

Late post (wee update)

Forgot to post on sunday (woops)

Started my first week of block 3 I'd say it went rather well,
it was nice to get more information on my graded unit, and now the proper note taking for that begins.  Taking lots of pictures, notes and then putting them all together (the fun part...urgh lol)

I enjoyed working with cad again, though all of the notes, just to keep the knowledge in there for the assesment for it in a few weeks.
I love working with cad, even if it's a bit fickle sometimes.
(will take some pictures of cad working for picture bloggness)

then we had tailoring, which is gonna be a fun unit, so far we are just practicing the tack stitch see what the differance is between marking out your tacking and doing it free hand which was interesting, some people found it easier with bigger tacks and i personally found it easier with smaller ones 0.5mm or smaller.


My design and make jacket is almost finished.
I had some problems with my notch being wrong for my button stand and also how to apply a fake hem (by using facing)
but all done and just need to finish the hem,


I love it so much can't wait to button it and finish it,  I'd love to do something simular but with pink accents, and maybe pink lining and a pink button
(no idea where this like for pink is coming from but I think it would go well with the lighter denim)
I might even see if i'm allowed to go take it somewhere to be embroidered 


*all the excite*

Sunday, 26 February 2017

Wheels of motion

College work
Just finished block two's work at the college, 2 down 1 to go.

Design and Make Project (Part 1)- Simplicity
I've got one week left so i'm going to work on my design and make project
which is to design a jacket (which i'm working on just finished the mock up, to start the proper garment, this week coming on Wednesday)
it's a mandarin collar jacket, with flare and 2 piece sleeves.

Unsure about the button placement as one closes the garment at the top and one in the middle opens the garment out (seen above) 
 

Design and make Project (Part 2)
i'm still unsure what i'm going to do for the rest the default is, jacket and dress.
but we also get the choice between a)jacket, blouse and skirt or b)jacket, blouse and trousers.
I think the best bet is to probably do the dress pattern, and saw a mock up for all choices if I have enough time, this will give me an ideal where my strengths and weaknesses are and what I need to work on.



New equipment
Finally got a new (old) sewing machine, given to me by my partners lovely mammy <3
once it's all up and running and together i'll post about it and gush about how much I lurves it.
Still love my wee singer machine too (it's defiantly the prettier of the 2, being fully cast iron and what not with a lovely black finish and nice finishing details) and the fact it holds into it's table and is tons lighter than the other one is great.

Business
So this means full steam head once it's set up for starting more work on the business side, i'll get a few test garments done then look into posting on etsy, etc.  Though I've heard they do take a big cut so i'll need to look into that. 




Sunday, 19 February 2017

wee outfit

 I put together my final pieces from last year (the shirt and skirt, along with a jacket I made this years course) and added a wee hat to go with (from Mr bens shop in Glasgow)

I think it's rather cute can't wait to get a wee model picture of it though.

I really like how the high waist and lower cut shirt work together and balance out well.






I aim to try post alittle more next week, 3 assessments this past week and a hand in so very tired me.